Uncertainty and innovation in fashion design

Generally speaking, psychologists have suggested three traditional views of how people cope with uncertainty. They are the certainty maximiser, the intuitive statistician-economist and the knowledge seeker (Smithson, 2008). In times of uncertainty, such as the recent global financial crisis, these coping methods often result in innovation in industry. Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. An examination of the work of iconic fashion designers, through case study and situational analysis, reveals that coping with uncertainty manifests itself in ways that have resulted in innovations in design, marketing methods, production and consumption. In relation to contemporary fashion, where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit (Finn, 2008), the concept of innovation is an important one. This paper explores the role of uncertainty as a driver of innovation in fashion design. A key aspect of seeking knowledge, as a mechanism to cope with this uncertainty, is a return to basics. This is a problem for contemporary fashion designers who are no longer necessarily makers and therefore do not engage with the basic materials and methods of garment construction. In many cases design in fashion has become digital, communicated to an unseen, unknown production team via scanned image and specification alone. The disconnection between the design and the making of garments, as a result of decades of off-shore manufacturing, has limited the opportunity for this return to basics. The authors argue that the role of the fashion designer has become about the final product and as a result there is a lack of innovation in the process of making: in the form, fit and function of fashion garments. They propose that ‘knowledge seeking’ as a result of uncertainty in the fashion industry, in particular through re-examination of the methods of making, could hold the key to a new era of innovation in fashion design.

Gatekeeping, gatewatching, real-time feedback : new challenges for Journalism

How bloggers and other independent online commentators criticise, correct, and otherwise challenge conventional journalism has been known for years, but has yet to be fully accepted by journalists; hostilities between the media establishment and the new generation of citizen journalists continue to flare up from time to time. The old gatekeeping monopoly of the mass media has been challenged by the new practice of gatewatching: by individual bloggers and by communities of commentators which may not report the news first-hand, but curate and evaluate the news and other information provided by official sources, and thus provide an important service. And this now takes place ever more rapidly, almost in real time: using the latest social networks, which disseminate, share, comment, question, and debunk news reports within minutes, and using additional platforms that enable fast and effective ad hoc collaboration between users. When hundreds of volunteers can prove within a few days that a German minister has been guilty of serious plagiarism, when the world first learns of earthquakes and tsunamis via Twitter – how does journalism manage to keep up?

GATEKEEPING, GATEWATCHING, REALIMENTAÇÃO EM TEMPO REAL: novos desafios para o Jornalismo

Faz vários anos que se sabe como os blogueiros e outros comentaristas on-line independentes criticam, corrigem, e de outra maneira desafiam o jornalismo convencional, porém isto ainda não foi plenamente aceito pelos jornalistas; as hostilidades entre as empresas de mídia e a nova geração de jornalistas cidadãos continuam a irromper de vez em quando. O antigo monopólio de gatekeeping mantido pela mídia de massa tem sido desafiado pela nova prática de gatewatching: feita pelos blogueiros individuais e pelas comunidades de comentaristas que podem não fazer reportagem das notícias de primeira mão, porém fazem a curation e avaliam as notícias e outras informações fornecidas pelas fontes oficiais, e assim prestam um serviço importante. E isto ocorre atualmente com cada vez mais rapidez, quase em tempo real: usando as redes sociais mais recentes, que divulgam, compartilham, comentam, questionam e desacreditam as matérias noticiosas dentro de minutos, e usando plataformas adicionais que possibilitam a colaboração ad hoc rápida e eficaz entre os usuários. Quando centenas de voluntários podem provar dentro de alguns poucos dias que um ministro alemão foi culpado de plágio sério, quando o mundo inteiro fica sabendo de terremotos e tsunamis pelo Twitter – como é que o jornalismo consegue acompanhar tudo isto?

Happenings and sensational journalism [O acontecimento e o sensacional no jornalismo]

EM artigo anteriormente publicado (AGUIAR, 2008a), concluímos que as críticas elaboradas por certos autores (SOUSA, 2000; KURTZ, 1993; MARSHALL, 2003; MARCONDES FILHO, 1988), ao classificarem um determinado modo de jornalismo como sensacionalista, parecem querer opor uma imaginária constituição democrática do espaço público e da cultura legítima a uma suposta disfunção narcotizante do entretenimento, que promoveria o conformismo social e reforçaria as normas sociais. O jornalismo sensacionalista, nesse entendimento, veicularia apenas a ampla trivialidade e o excesso de diversão estaria “matando” os ideais iluministas da sociedade moderna, tal como aposta Postman (1986). Entretanto, pode-se ver nestas críticas aquilo que Edgar Morin define, ao estudar cultura de lazer, como a má impressão causada pelo divertimento e pela evasão aos “moralistas dessa confederação helvética do espírito que são as letras e a universidade” (MORIN, 2002).

The contruction of the truth-effects : a case study of Os sertoes and Abusado

Descripción: [pt] A pesquisa se propõe a interpretar a construção dos efeitos de verdade em duas obras: Abusado: o dono do morro Dona Marta, de Caco Barcellos, e Os sertões, de Euclides da Cunha. Efeitos de verdade é uma expressão de Michel Foucault que diz respeito aos discursos não serem em si nem falsos nem verdadeiros. No caso de Os sertões, os efeitos de verdade surgem através das relações estratégicas e de poder entre a igreja católica, os senhores das terras, os políticos e um Brasil do litoral desconhecedor do Brasil dos sertões. Em Abusado, a gestação discursiva acontece pela produção da figura do delinqüente através das relações entre o sistema carcerário, o infrator e a sociedade.

Fecal indicators and bacterial pathogens in bottled water from Dhaka, Bangladesh

Forty-six bottled water samples representing 16 brands from Dhaka, Bangladesh were tested for the numbers of total coliforms, fecal indicator bacteria (i.e., thermotolerant Escherichia coli and Enterococcus spp.) and potential bacterial pathogens (i.e., Aeromonas hydrophil, Pseudomonas aeruginos, Salmonella spp., and Shigella spp.). Among the 16 brands tested, 14 (86%), ten (63%) and seven (44%) were positive for total coliforms, E. coil and Enterococcus spp., respectively. Additionally, a further nine (56%), eight (50%), six (37%), and four (25%) brands were PCR positive for A. hydrophila lip, P. aeruginosa ETA, Salmonella spp. invA, and Shigella spp. ipaH genes, respectively. The numbers of bacterial pathogens in bottled water samples ranged from 28 ± 12 to 600 ± 45 (A. hydrophila lip gene), 180 ± 40 to 900 ± 200 (Salmonella spp. invA gene), 180 ± 40 to 1,300 ± 400 (P. aeruginosa ETA gene) genomic units per L of water. Shigella spp. ipaH gene was not quantifiable. Discrepancies were observed in terms of the occurrence of fecal indicators and bacterial pathogens. No correlations were observed between fecal indicators numbers and presence/absence of A. hydrophila lip (p = 0.245), Salmonella spp. invA (p = 0.433), Shigella spp. ipaH gene (p = 0.078), and P. aeruginosa ETA (p = 0.059) genes. Our results suggest that microbiological quality of bottled waters sold in Dhaka, Bangladesh is highly variable. To protect public health, stringent quality control is recommended for the bottled water industry in Bangladesh. Key words: bottled water, fecal indicator bacteria, quantitative PCR, bacterial pathogens, public health risk.

Determining the material properties for heavily over-consolidated bagasse through parameter estimation

A better understanding of the behaviour of prepared cane and bagasse, and the ability to model the mechanical behaviour of bagasse as it is squeezed in a milling unit to extract juice, would help identify how to improve the current process. For example, there are opportunities to decrease bagasse moisture from a milling unit. Also, the behaviour of bagasse in chutes is poorly understood. Previous investigations have shown that juice flow through bagasse obeys Darcy’s permeability law, that the grip of the rough surface of the grooves on the bagasse can be represented by the Mohr-Coulomb failure criterion for soils, and that the internal mechanical behaviour of the bagasse is critical state behaviour similar to that for sand and clay. Progress has been made in the last ten years towards implementing a mechanical model for bagasse in finite element software. The objective has been to be able to simulate simple mechanical loading conditions measured in the laboratory, which, when combined together, have a high probability of reproducing the complicated stress conditions in a milling unit. This paper reports on the successful simulation of part of the fifth and final (and most challenging) loading condition, the shearing of heavily over-consolidated bagasse, and determining material property values through the use of powerful and free parameter estimation software.

Advanced computer simulation of the milling process

Process modelling is an integral part of any process industry. Several sugar factory models have been developed over the years to simulate the unit operations. An enhanced and comprehensive milling process simulation model has been developed to analyse the performance of the milling train and to assess the impact of changes and advanced control options for improved operational efficiency. The developed model is incorporated in a proprietary software package ‘SysCAD’. As an example, the milling process model has been used to predict a significant loss of extraction by returning the cush from the juice screen before #3 mill instead of before #2 mill as is more commonly done. Further work is being undertaken to more accurately model extraction processes in a milling train, to examine extraction issues dynamically and to integrate the model into a whole factory model.

Issues associated with using trash as a cogeneration fuel

Considerable work has been undertaken to determine an economical process to provide sugarcane trash as a fuel for cogeneration. This paper reviews efforts to provide that trash fuel by harvesting, transporting and processing the trash with the cane. Harvesting trash with the cane has the advantage that cane that would otherwise be lost by extracting it with the trash is captured and sugar can be produced from that cane. Transporting trash with the cane significantly reduces the bulk density of the cane, requiring substantial changes and costs to cane transport. Shredding the trash at the harvester and compacting the cane in the bin prior to transport are possible methods to increase the bulk density but both have considerable cost. Processing trash through the sugar factory with the cane significantly reduces sugar recovery and sugar quality. Although considerable knowledge has been gained of these effects and further analysis has provided insights into their causes, much more work is required before whole crop harvesting and transport is an economically viable means of trash recovery.

Effect of chute level on mill capacity

IN MANY FACTORIES, the feed chute of the first mill is operated with a high chute level for the purpose of maximising the cane rate through the mill. There is a trend towards trying to control chute level within a small control range near the top of a chute that can result in rapid changes in cane feeding rate to maintain the chute level set point. This paper reviews the theory that predicts higher cane rate with higher chute level and discusses the main weakness in the theory that it does not consider the beneficial effect on capacity of cane falling from the top of the chute to the top surface of the cane mat. An extension to the chute theory model is described that predicts higher capacity with lower chute level because of the effect of the falling cane. The original model and this extended model are believed to be the upper and lower limits to the true effect. The paper reports an experiment that measured the real effect of chute level on capacity and finds that increasing chute level does lead to higher capacity but that the trend is only about one-third as strong as the original theory predicted. The paper questions whether the benefits of slightly greater capacity outweigh the costs of operating with the small control range near the top of the chute.

Barbadocladius Cranston & Krosch, a new genus of Orthocladiinae (Diptera : Chironomidae) from South America.

Barbadocladius n. gen. is erected and described in larval, pupal and adult stages for two species: B. andinus sp. nov. and B. limay sp. nov., from Andean streams. The larva is distinctive by virtue of the very large ventromental 'beard' and the anterior parapods with a 'sleeve' of hooklets in addition to apical pectinate claws. The pupa has hooklets on some tergal and sternal intersegmental membranes. The adult, reported only in teneral specimens has hairy eyes, no antennal apical strong seta, no acrostichals, bare and unmarked wings, cylindrical 4th tarsomere subequal in length to the 5th, pulvilli about half the claw length, and hypopygium with anal point, lacking a virga. Molecular phylogenetic analysis eliminates relationships directly to the Eukiefferiella complex (which also have pupal hooklets), or to the Cricotopus group (adults also with hairy eyes), suggesting instead a sister group relationship to a suite of predominantly austral genera of Orthocladiinae.

Identifying opportunity spaces for design research in South America: Working with grassroots and community groups

As design research continues to gain momentum in South America, design researchers and practitioners in the region have begun to consider how to the field may address regionally-specific issues, including on-going political struggles. By bringing approaches such as Participatory Design and Adversarial Design that consider political aspects of design, local researchers have explored various forms that these two approaches could take that are tailored to the needs and values of different communities across the region. This paper focuses on identifying opportunities for developing design research projects in community-based and grassroots-oriented contexts. The paper presents the findings of our study about the understanding and experience of design researchers and experts who have been working closely with community groups and grassroots organisations in South America. Five themes emerged, highlighting opportunities and challenges related to positioning contemporary design research in the region, integration of adversarial perspectives into design processes, leveraging local obstacles through creativity, and the potential of building capacity within community groups and grassroots organisations for sustainability and autonomy.

Climbing the design ladder: Step by step

This research presents findings of a research project where the first author worked with a small to medium sized enterprise (SME) manufacturing company in order to integrate design at a strategic level within the company. This study aims to identify the changes experienced in the participating company while shifting the perspective of design from a product focus towards a strategic focus. Staff interviews at two points in time and a reflective journal were used as data sources within an action research methodology. A shift in the perspective of design was noted in three cultural changes within the firm over time: a focus on long term as well as short term outcomes, on indirect as well as direct value and on intangible as well as tangible benefits. These three components are proposed as ‘cultural stepping stones’ that describe how a company transitions from an exclusively product- focused utilisation of design, to a process-level application of design. Implications of this research are provided as considerations for businesses that are attempting to facilitate a similar transformation in the future.